Peugeot 107 Engine Warning Light
It can be daunting when you start your car and the check engine light comes on. But do you know what your dashboard warning lights mean? Picture the scene. You’re already running late for work. It’s cold and dark outside. You fumble with your keys and switch on your car’s ignition, and the.
Peugeot 107 Engine Warning Light Bulb
Sorry this is going to be a long and rambling one to explain all.It's now almost a year since we bought our bug. An 07 plate with 43K on the clock.Within a month or so the check engine / management light had come on.We were doing mixed driving - some short journeys and some longer ones about every week or two.The dealer who sold us the car was pretty helpful. Reading the codes and swapping out the seemingly offending upper lambda sensor FOC.That seemed to cure the problem, but again within six weeks the light was on and this time the lower sensor was indicated when the dealer read the codes.
During this time we had moved too far away to go back to the dealer and the 3 month limited warranty had expired. He would have honoured / fixed the fault though had we been around.The whole time during this period the car / engine was performing faultlessly. Same MPG, great starting and smooth running.I checked the wiring and inspired by other forum members experiences we ran the car with the light on for a good long while and around 3K miles.Time flies and my thoughts turned to the new MOT rules - all dash indicator / warning lights must be on at ignition on, and then go out once the engine has started. This gave cause for concern.The first thing I did was get a cheap code reader / resetting tool. Easiest thing in the world to plug in read off codes and clear them.This time it was an indicated catalyst left bank low efficiency that was triggering the light?!Resetting the code would keep it out for about 3-6 weeks. Then the light would come on always the same fault code after accruing 5 warnings before triggering. I did this reading and resetting over and over a few times.Before the MOT I purchased the Cat cleaner fuel additive from the C1OC shop and also new spark plugs.The old NGK plugs in there had done close on 20K miles and so were coming up for a change.
They looked nice and crisp andclean. Same perfect very light brown colour on all 3.The car was then run as per instructions for the cat cleaner and I ran her at around 4000 rpm for a good long while on some journeys before heading to the MOT station.Once there I read off the codes before going in. No codes were present. Light was not on after start up (of course).Some trepidation while waiting. She passed with flying colours. Battle los angeles online free. Emission tests were perfect according to the MOT man and the values showed that too.So for the cost of a cheap code reader, some plugs (probably not the cause of the problem) and the Cat cleaner, all is well with the MOT.We'll have to see how long the light stays out this time.
Our usage pattern will change a little too. My daughter who shared the car is moving away to Uni in the autumn and is away travelling soon so the the shortest journeys will be reduced.As an aside, here's something I'll share that is related: There is a radio program broadcast regularly in Sweden where an expert / fatherly mechanic helps diagnose problems that folk ring in with. It's quite entertaining, mostly cars a few years old, some even veteran / vintage - as long as you understand Swedish its a fun show.
No problem for me - lived there for 10yrs, been speaking Swedish for nigh on 28yrs, Swedish wife and Swedish speaking kids etc.Anyway, someone rang in with a very similar case to ours (it was not a city bug though). The light would come on, emissions checks all clear engine running fine, reset, ok for a while and then same thing over again, emissions ok etc.The advice given was the fault triggering mechanisms could well be too sensitive - some suspicion that car manufacturers set these things up on a bit of hair trigger - after all it is a great money making machine for them - new sensors, cats etc etc.This over sensitivity was described as the ECU triggering system being a bit like an over zealous Parrot. Popping up and wagging its head when there is not really a serious problem (that parallel works better in the Swedish language though).As the emissions tests were clear over and over, the suggestion was to connect the oil pressure sender to the engine management light. On turning the ignition key on, all dash lights would come on as usual. On starting the car they would all go out as required by the MOT.If the car developed more serious problems, the ECU would behave as it would have done anyway - limp home mode etc, just that the light would not come on. Fault codes could still be read off etc.I'm not suggesting doing the above - seems a step too far for me, especially as I can read codes and reset the light whenever I want.
Interesting though. An illuminated engine management light will not fail an MOT, so long as all emissions are in spec - the EML itself is not a testable item. Connecting it to the oil pressure sender is pointless if it's not tested.All illuminated SRS, TPMS or braking system idiot light will automatically fail the MOT.and click on 'instruments panel'.A MIL lamp illumination should be an MOT failure.
Check Engine Warning Light
It's primarily an indication of a failure of an emissions control device causing the emissions to exceed legal limits. Also, any component that contributes to freeze-frame data that fails will also illuminate the MIL lamp even though it doesn't contribute directly to the vehicle emissions, for example, vehicle speed.Freeze-frame data is a list of parameters that are recorded by the engine management module at the point of MIL lamp illumination that would enable a mechanic to drive a vehicle to exact conditions to reproduce a fault, for example, coolant temperature, engine load, engine revs, and vehicle speed, to name but a few.
These parameters are accessable by any generic diagnostic tester that can read diagnostic fault codes. An illuminated engine management light will not fail an MOT, so long as all emissions are in spec - the EML itself is not a testable item. Connecting it to the oil pressure sender is pointless if it's not tested.All illuminated SRS, TPMS or braking system idiot light will automatically fail the MOT.and click on 'instruments panel'.They have properly state run MOT centres there.Not any more. The winds of change have even hit a socialist country like Sweden.
I think as of now, more than 50% of MOT stations (bil besiktning) are private companies. There are two large companies that have managed to elbow their way in to this lucrative market here. They are still properly run though (compared to the UK mot). Yes I did live in the UK during 1980's!Raj from Sweden.over and out!